Sunday, November 20, 2011

Blind Optimism

(Published in The Baguio Chronicle)
The 25th Mt. Kinabalu International Climbathon 2011
Oct. 22-23, 2011, Sabah, Malaysia
(PART 1 of 2)
by RASHEL M PEÑA
(ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Rashel M. Peña, a native of Baguio City, is a graduate of Saint Louis University and a former radio announcer at GMA Campus Radio. She has been a member of the Philippine Skyrunning Association since 2008, after joining the Mt. Kinabalu International Climbathon Skyrace in that same year, and the first from Baguio-Benguet to join the skyrunning group.
She started serious running since 2005 and has been running marathons and ultra marathons since then. She is currently working as a teacher and a trainor at Sekolah Darma Bangsa in Bandar Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia. 
She says running mountains and pounding on the roads just makes her happy. She just runs; no 'what if's'.  It is her form of meditation and her way of celebrating God's blessings.)
clip_image002I BOOKED my ticket to Kota Kinabalu months before the 25th Kinabalu Climbathon. I saved hard for it. Having a meager pay as a teacher and a trainor is difficult.
It all started when my friends from the Philippine Skyrunning Association (PSA) sent word about the upcoming skyrace. I didn’t think twice. I knew I’m meant to be there, with my friends, with my team, to run and experience Mt. Kinabalu again.
Days, months passed by swiftly. While my friends went for their practice and altitude runs, I was stuck at work. I was limited to just a few runs and climbs whenever there’s a holiday coming which is very limited from where I am. Another is the expenses I would have to face. Climbing mountains in Indonesia is quite expensive. I didn’t have much choice.
Practice runs for me included five times a week of at least 15km each day. I was able to run and climb four mountains above 2,000 meters above sea level in Indonesia for my altitude runs and culminating it with 17-kilometer footrace in the Adidas King of the road Indonesia. I was careful not to get injured and I ate more than usual and incorporated a lot of rest days. I had to gain more weight for muscle strength, so I had this ratio of 30 percent of carbohydrates and about 15-20 percent of protein. Hydration was vital too and a good amount of sleep.
A week before the race I weighed 51 kilos, good enough from a light 48 kilograms. I tried hard not to think of the race, though deep within it is just at the back of my mind taunting me. Good thing, I could sleep well every night, but the moment my mind starts to remember, I could hear my heart racing fast again. Recalling back what happened in 2008, I just know how it would feel like to be racing, to be crawling, to have my legs screaming for rest, for my heart to beat so fast, have short breaths as the thinning air starts to affect me mentally and physically. I just knew what I’m going to be up to again.
Rushing everything at work, making sure that everything will be ok once I leave for Malaysia. I asked several of my colleagues to hold the fort for me and it was kind and responsible of them to take charge while I am away. I was appreciative of their help. Packing for my stuff was another serious matter for me. I didn’t have much running clothes with me. I tried to go hunting for second-hand shops here in Indonesia to see if there are some stuff suitable for me, something appropriate for the weather in Kinabalu. There are only a few sports shops here in Bandar Lampung, Sumatra Indonesia and are very expensive. I didn’t have a choice but to content myself with running with my old running gears.
I flew to Kota Kinabalu four days before the race day. Months earlier, I was apprehensive since I will be travelling alone and I had no place to stay. I was particularly short of money. Every single cent counts. I’ve already psyched myself that I won’t be buying anything nor indulging in shopping or eating at fine restaurants. I worked on my very limited budget. I was ready to eat just rotti and drink just water. I didn’t mind that at all.
All these I accepted until one day, a message from Facebook got my attention. A Good Samaritan asked me if I’d be racing in 25th Kinabalu Climbathon. I said ‘yes’ and he offered to help. He works with the climbathon’s race director, Sabah Tourism and one of the radio-communications personnel for the race. He arranged to pick me up at the airport and my accommodation for the night, including my taxi to Kundasang, near Kinabalu Park the next morning --- all for free. Getting this generous treatment confirmed how much the event coordinators and race organizers appreciate the Philippine Skyrunning Association’s love for the Kinabalu Climbathon. And I’m very thankful.
The drive to Kundasang took almost two hours. The taxi was fast and my chat with a retired high school principal was a bonus. He shared his wisdom about education and how much of a proud man he is to be the first man in his village to get an education through sheer hard work and go back and teach the youth in his village. He’s admirable and inspiring.
Reaching our lodge (Ceasar’s Place) in Kundasang was breathtaking. Mt. Kinabalu is beautifully wrapped in swirling clouds, seemingly welcoming me back in her arms. Maite Abellanosa and Merlita Arias-Dunkin greeted me when I came. Tita Maite, as she is fondly called was cooking a mouth-watering vegetable dish as Philippine Skyrunning Association-sponsored athlete; Merlita Dunkin helps out. The others were out for their practice run to the summit.
I was later introduced to Romano Cortes Jorge of the PSA. We talked for hours and then decided to go meet the others at a nearby restaurant, just the time when they’re all back from the summit.
First, we met was Jules Picato and Roland Wang, a ‘kababayan’ from the Cordillera and soon I got reunited with the other members of the PSA. We were all happy to see each other.
The next morning was my turn for a practice run with Mia, Charina, Roland, and Luke. The view of the mountain that morning was clear with the sun coming out perfectly, compared to the previous days when it’s cloudy and raining. I felt good to run it.
We set off at 7:30 from Timpohon Gate. I made a promise to my body that I will only go as far as I can. My plan was to acclimatize and let my legs and feet feel the trails and the granite pathways and get reacquainted with the usual stress on my muscles as I go higher. Again I was extra careful not to injure myself.
I stayed in the middle of the pack. Mia was ahead, while I was just a couple of hundred meters behind until Roland caught up with me. Luke joined us later too near Laban Ratta while Charina just took her time and was at the back of the pack, taking her own pace.
Then the site of the ropes signaled that it was time to crawl up and the soft rain came, slowly soaking us. We are now 3,400 meters above sea level and going higher. It is freezing cold!
I was particularly worried about Luke. He was already feeling sick due to lack of sleep the previous nights. He was starting to have altitude sickness --- splitting headache, dizziness and sleepiness. But his determination to push on is admirable. The rain poured stronger as we reached Sayat-sayat at KM. 7.
We pushed even harder. Roland and I were still okay but as soon as I saw the fog zero-in on us from above, covering the mountain, plus the strong rain drenching us. I just knew deep within that it is no longer safe to move forward so I decided to call off the assault to the summit. Roland agreed and I just knew that we had to go back soon, especially for Luke. It was already dark up the summit due to the thick clouds and pouring rain. Safety first.
The trek down wasn’t easy. We all met up at Laban Ratta to eat and warm our stomachs. Instant noodles were just perfect. I welcomed the little sodium into my system and it felt energizing. Luke looked better and felt better too. After fuelling ourselves, we went off in a hurry, lest we get caught in the dark and pouring rain. It was raining all the way to the forest. There were some compression stops and met some interesting runners on our way. We were fascinated by the runners from Nepal. They looked so simple; none of those famous shoe brands, all they had was their friendly smiles, road shoes and sweat pants.
The pouring rain didn’t help us. The trek seemed too long for us. It was already dark when we reached Timpohon Gate and we called for ‘rescue’. We were feeling sick and shivering. There was no more transportation going back to the lodge. Thankfully, Jocelyn Saw was there with a handful of Malaysian rescuers who took us back to our lodge. Getting back was a real relief for everyone. We all ate, and slept soundly that night.
(TO BE CONTINUED…)
 
BLIND OPTIMISM
The 25th Mt. Kinabalu International Climbathon 2011
Oct. 22-23, 2011, Sabah, Malaysia
 
(PART 2 of 2)
by RASHEL M PEÑA
clip_image002 (ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Rashel M. Peña, a native of Baguio City, is a graduate of Saint Louis University and a former radio announcer at GMA Campus Radio. She has been a member of the Philippine Skyrunning Association since 2008, after joining the Mt. Kinabalu International Climbathon Skyrace in that same year, and the first from Baguio-Benguet to join the skyrunning group.
She started serious running since 2005 and has been running marathons and ultra marathons since then. She is currently working as a teacher and a trainor at Sekolah Darma Bangsa in Bandar Lampung, Sumatra, Indonesia. 
She says running mountains and pounding on the roads just makes her happy. She just runs; no 'what if's'.  It is her form of meditation and her way of celebrating God's blessings.)
THE day before the race was about eating and resting. A brief meeting with the representatives from Benguet was part of our itinerary. They looked all fascinated and happy to join us. Upon getting our race kits, we all headed back to the lodge and started getting ready for an early meal, ready our jerseys and get an early sleep. I stayed up a bit late, waiting up for a friend, Alexander Cenzon coming from Baguio, who is racing in the men’s open in day two.
It’s race day and we all got up at 2 am. I did not sleep. I couldn’t sleep. I made my usual strong, black coffee for the kick, took a shower and got ready. The bus pick up is at 4:30am to take us to the starting line. It was cold and windy. The sky was clear and the stars were brightly twinkling. Then the bus came and whisked us off to Kinabalu Park.
We were the first contingent to arrive at the starting line. I was nervous but was not obvious due to the cold weather. Cameras started clicking from everywhere as other participants came and started to warm up. I was awaiting the arrival of the star runners. I was the usual fan once more. Almost all the athletes wore good brands of running shoes and shirts. They all looked colourful. Photos were taken here and there, got some good ones too. We all had fun taking our pictures with the best runners and other runners from other countries. They were all admirable.
Then finally the moment came, bang! and we were all off to the trails of 9 kilometers up and 12 kilometers coming back. I didn’t start well, my hydration belt was going up my chest. I’m not used to using it, so I decided to sling it over my head and shoulders and it felt better. I flet like ‘Rambo’, I could run better. My legs were a bit stiff but were okay. The other runners passed by me and I told myself to let them, as there’s still plenty of time. I relaxed.
Slowly I was passing by runners but didn’t notice who they were. My friends told me later, they saw me pass by them, but my mind was blank. I focused on my body, praying silently that I’d be able to maintain and save my strength as I go higher. It was interesting to see star runners, like Kilian Jornet of Spain in the men’s open cheering us in the woods. My friend Jules, enjoyed that particular part.
The ascent was excruciating. The steps, the boulders were really punishing to the legs. The altitude was setting in. I saw several runners stopping to catch their breaths early on. I walked and ran but mostly speed walked. Upon reaching more of the stairs, that’s when I paused several times, I could already feel the pain in my thighs. I hydrated and pushed on. A Malaysian runner was behind me and he kept saying, ‘we can make it…let’s go go go’. Then I found myself exchanging stories with him and was later on joined by other runners. We were laughing as we climbed.
Taking photos is always a part of any event, whether running or not. It was good I brought mine to get some good shots of the summit and some of the runners too. The weather leading to the summit was great. It was in its azure blue. The clouds were puffy and the temperature was comfortably warm.
Each checkpoint was an achievement in itself. It felt good listening to someone radioing your number to base camp that you’ve arrived. The checkers were very nice and polite and very encouraging. They took pictures of us too, I was thick enough to ask some of their food and water. I was hungry and they were very gracious.
At Km. 8, checkers reminded us of the time left. I was told I still have time to make it to the cut off time, which is 3:30. I asked one medic to spray my legs an anti-pain to fuel my last hurrah to the top. I just had a few minutes left. I run and speed walked and arrived at Km. 8.5 when a checker told me that my time is up. I looked up and there the summit is looking down at me. All I needed was a few more minutes to cross the last 500 meters. I sat, then knelt and kissed the ground. I felt humbled by the mountain, by the experience of it being on top. I walked up to the summit and cried silently. I took photos of the summit, as I was told this would be the last time that the summit will be included in the race. Next year will be a different and a longer route for all the skyrunners.
After a few minutes of rest and taking photos, I started to go down quickly. But I just had to stop by at Laban Ratta, to eat a little. I was lucky enough to see Charina Javier for I didn’t bring money with me. We ate quickly then I ran off ahead of her.
Running down was tough to the knees. I ran and speedwalked. One would feel more of the pain if he or she stops, so I just pushed and pushed. It rained a little in the forest and it wasn’t helpful. The path was mushy and slippery.
Signposts reminded me how many more kilometers I need to cover. When I saw that I only had two kilometers left to the gate , I felt good. Once I’m there, I only need to do 3 kilometers of road run to the finish line and I’m done.
The last 3 Km. of road was a boost. Hearing from a distance the music and the cheers meant I’m almost there. I ran and ran along side an Indonesian runner who paced me. The happiness and excitement was too much, it was just overwhelming. Then I saw my friends cheering a few hundred meters away. I came running into their arms. I cried. It felt good seeing them, waiting for me. On my watch, I ran a total of 6 hours and 50 minutes, traversing the great mountain.
Running Mt. Kinabalu for the second time was a celebration of what I am inside. I never get tired of coming back and running it again. The experience of being with the star athletes and running with them always gave a moment of being equal and the oozing inspiration that they exude is just contagious. This experience drove me to keep running and share the love for the sport. And above all, running with my team and friends who are there to support me and cheer me up is just invaluable.
With my team looking forward to come back next year is exciting enough. With the new and longer route makes everyone wonder and vow for a better result and that was obvious in each other’s eyes.
This is why I keep running, no matter what. The ‘high’ is never enough; it is an addiction. I keep coming back for more. Now Mt. Fuji awaits for the 2012 Skyrace.
 
(Note: Many thanks to Mr. Sly L. Quintos, Editor-in-chief of the Baguio Chronicle)

Thursday, October 6, 2011

The Running Duck: Skyrun BromoTengger Semeru National Park (8/28-30,...

The Running Duck: Skyrun BromoTengger Semeru National Park (8/28-30,...: It all started when I failed to get a ticket going back home to the Philippines for the Eid break. Prices were ridiculously expensive durin...

Skyrun BromoTengger Semeru National Park (8/28-30, 2011)

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 It all started when I failed to get a ticket going back home to the Philippines for the Eid break. Prices were ridiculously expensive during the Lebaran holiday.
My thoughts were wandering here and there. I just know that there was no way I will spend the break doing nothing. I really need this break to catch up with my training for Mount Kinabalu in October. I am so far behind my Philippine Skyrunning team whose been training months ago, while I was stuck at work. I got in touch with my friend mountaineer from UNILA (University of Lampung). I told him that I want to climb mountains in Java. Without hesitation, Medico ‘Dico’ Eka Putra agreed to take me to the mountains of Java. He surprised me for it’s not common for Muslims to miss out on Ramadan-Lebaran holiday. It was really kind of him.
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Days before the Eid break, I got word from Dico that tickets have tripled in price. I know I don’t have much in my savings, so I ruled out going there by plane. I told Dico that we take the bus or train instead. Tickets for these transpo were also expensive. Dico managed to haggle a bit and got us tickets. Next was the other expenses. Getting a 4x4 jeep from Tumpang, Malang was definitely out of my budget, so I told Dico about my idea of renting a vegetable truck instead, to take us to Ranu Pani. He was amazed at my idea. He never thought I’d be wiling to ride a truck.
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The bus and ferry trip to Malang in Java Timur was long and uncomfortable 32 hours. I kept consoling myself that without pain there is no gain and that sealed my fate for my ascend to Mount Semeru and Bromo Caldera.
From Malang, we were met by Dico’s mountaineer friends from MAPALA (a mountaineering organization) of the University of Islamic studies of Malang. Kota Malang greeted me with its cold weather that reminded me of my very own city: Baguio. I was just so glad to get off the bus. My butt hurts, my back was numb, and got a stiff neck and was craving for a long sleep. I was hungry but sleep’s call was stronger.
The following day was planning day and haggling day. We stationed ourselves at the mountaineers’ hub at the university. The mountaineers are just so hospitable. They treated me like a queen.  They took me around their campus, they fed me and made sure I ate and enjoyed my food. They wanted to fatten me up.
After finalizing the trip and transportation for Tumpang, we set off and slept at another of my guide’s friends’ home.
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At 6 am on August 28, 2011 we boarded a vegetable truck bound for Ranupani, 28 kilometers away from Tumpang. My plan was to start running once we arrive at the Climbers and Search and Rescue Camp in Ranupani then rest at mid camp in Kalimati before we ascent for the summit at 1 am.
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Passing by vegetation, apple trees, pines, figs, and beautifully sculpted mountains took my breath away. Again it reminded me of my home city and province, especially the temperature, road and terrain. From afar we can see a glimpse of Mt. Semeru. She is huge: 3,676 masl, beautiful and taunting while Bromo nearby is equally intimidating at 2,329 masl. Only God knows if I’d be able to climb the top. I was silently calling onto Him to allow me and make this happen.
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After 2 hours of a bumpy truck ride, we arrived at Ranupani’s  Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park to register. I got out of my layered clothes and got ready for the run, remembering to bring my gaiter, gloves, trekking poles, pants and extra layering for the freezing temperature at the top. My guide-pacer ‘Jawa’ was all happy to run with me.
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Leaving our backpacks with the other mountaineers, who opted to stay, to cook and wait up for us at base camp wished us a safe run and reminded me not to forget to use my buff when ascending the volcanic surface. Not doing this would be fatal. Several climbers have already died at the surface inhaling the sulfuric air and also of hypothermia.
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I enjoyed the view as I ran the rolling hills. The mountains beyond were exquisite. Some of them were perfect for bouldering or rock climbing. Going through the bushes, I slipped and bumped my head hard on a suspended fallen tree trunk. I fell and got unconscious for a few seconds. I became conscious at my guide’s yelling: ‘are you ok?’. I got up and continued running. That was funny! This is what happens when you’re too busy appreciating the view!
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Arriving at Ranukumbolo was jaw-dropping. The crater-lake was so beautiful from afar. Its waters was freezing cold to the touch. I was told that several villagers love to fish there. The area was also an old settlement of the Kingdom of Majapahit hundreds of years ago as proven by an old stone relic near the lake. Near it is also a popular path for trekkers, it’s called ‘the hill of love’. Legend has it that anyone who’s trekking this part, must not look back or else it’s bad luck.
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Off we ran again. Next stop was the grassy plains of Oro Oro Ombo, a vast savanah. It was so dry that bush fires can occur at any moment. From a distance ahead of me, my guide told me that I looked so small, like a red dot hopping on the grass.
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Another compression was at Cemoro Kandang, a mountain of cypress forest. I felt so relieved for the shade and the cool winds. Being under these trees made me sleepy, I just wanted to lay down and snooze for a while. We met some trekkers in this area, mostly to rest or camp for the night and move on the next day. Trekkers we met were from Australia, Singapore, Germany, Malaysia and locals from nearby provinces. They were very friendly.
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About an hour later, we got to Kalimati, a barren area meaning waterless river. This is the mid camp for most climbers. Although the temperature can be as low as -2, setting up camp here gives a good view of Mt. Semeru. Nearby is a spring called Sumber Mani, where campers wash up, get their clean drinking water or take a bath - if they could handle the temperature.
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Setting up camp was interesting. We found some wood for cooking and to keep us warm. But I had to go take advantage of the sunshine while I could to sunbathe. It was really cold. My hands were beginning to become numb. ‘Jawa’ was kind enough to do the rest of the setting up while I did some of my notes. A few moments later, a group of students joined the camp followed by a German couple and an advance party of porters of Australian and Singaporean trekkers arriving the next day. We all helped and cooked dinner and exchanged stories and they all asked me why I run the mountains. It was fun meeting all of them. Pictures were taken here and there of our group and promised to keep in touch…particularly in Facebook.
Falling asleep was difficult. It was icy cold. I was under layers of clothing in my sleeping bag but it wouldn’t stop the shaking. I did not sleep at all. I just looked at the stars and waited for time.
At 12 midnight, we were ready. The students decided to join me and ‘Jawa’ for the trek. The German couple went about an hour ahead of us. We had a light breakfast, mostly toast. I particularly requested something a bit salty for I have been eating mostly sweets since I arrived in Malang. The hot coffee was so good to my throat and to my touch. And I didn’t want to leave the fire’s warmth.
My hydration pack was full but light and that was good. Managing your load when going up a high mountain at such an elevation is very important. My guide and I distributed our load evenly to make the trek easier and faster for both of us. I dressed myself thickly and was thankful of the gaiter my friend and guide ‘Dico’ lent me. It was imperative that I wear it or else all the sulfuric sands and pebbles would get into my shoes and that would be trouble.
At 1:25 am on my watch, we started our journey to the woods and the summit. It was freezing. I still cannot feel my fingers and my toes. We were under the stars and a smiling crescent moon. The woods was dark and quiet, except for the sound of the wheezing winds. Without our headlamps, it was difficult to see where we’re going. As we walk and hop our way up, ‘Jawa’ told me a chilling story of trekkers who died on the very ground we were on. He pointed his headlamp to a headstone that showed the names of several trekkers who perished in their attempt to summit Mt. Semeru. Hypothermia, disorientation, altitude sickness, and hunger, he said, led to the death of the trekkers. That brought lump to my throat.
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Slowly, I noticed I no longer see the roots of trees and branches that helped me pull myself up as I went higher. Faintly, I could see the vertical outline of the massive volcano in front of me. The fine sulfuric sands were eating me from my feet to my legs. It was hard to walk without sinking in almost knee deep. Without my trekking poles, it would be impossible to pull my legs up and step forward. According to my guide, one cannot risk holding on to rock-like formations for these are soft and could create a ‘slide’, similar to an avalanche. I wasn’t even allowed to sit for a long time. Every time I called for ‘rest’, I was warned not to sit, so I had to rest by standing, aided by my poles.
The sands were too soft for balance. Every five steps that I made, I end up making only two! It’s all because the sands make you slide down, like I wasn’t making any progress.  Every effort and movement I made, made me so exhausted. And then the air was thinning, indicating the soaring altitude. The wind was so strong, carrying with it a lot of the sulfur from the surface that made it so hard to breathe. My buff covering my face almost entirely, was so much of a help. It was also comforting to start the ascent in the dark, it just has this psychological factor: you don’t see the ‘hurdles’ in front of you and that was good. I just felt that the mountain was taunting me telling me to go back.
Whenever i stopped, I would turn and see such a magnificent view of the contours of nearby mountains, towns, villages and clouds hovering above them. The sun is almost out and we need to go faster to see it rise. Just as we were trying to beat the sunrise, I noticed the others are no longer behind us. I could no longer see their headlights. ‘Jawa’ told me the others must have given up and headed back to mid camp.
In my exhaustion, I stopped more frequently. I refused to look up because I know it would only make me more tired. ‘Jawa’ kept yelling ‘c’mon’! He kept saying how many more meters left and I didn’t want to hear that. I felt so exhausted that i wanted to hit him for his yelling. For a moment I felt like a kid being scold at.  Hundred meters are like kilometers for me at that moment.But i am so thankful for having him around. He got me going.
The last 50 meters seemed the longest. My feet, my legs, my thighs were burning and heavy that I was afraid I might get a cramp at any moment soon. It was a long haul. ‘Jawa’ kept egging me to keep going as it’s almost sunrise. I hauled myself several more painful times and at 5:30 in the morning,  ‘Jawa’ and I arrived at the summit. Seeing the sunrise and stepping on the summit, I cried and I knelt. I was overwhelmed by the beauty of being on top of this beautiful mountain and the miracle of reaching it. My guide let me take my time to cry. I was thankful for everything. To God who made this experience happen for me. For the strength that pushed me all the way to the top.
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With the nipping cold of –8 degrees at the summit, I took out my country’s flag and tied it second at the pole, second to the Indonesian flag. It gave me a sense of pride and immense gratitude.I was still crying.
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Knowing we have ample time to take pictures and savor the view, I was in my running gear and ran around the allowable area of the crater. Running on ‘Mahameru’ felt great, I felt like I was floating. After about 20 minutes, my guide told me that it was time to go, before the usual mild spewing of ash and smoke of the crater happens. It would be hard to breathe, he said.
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I bid goodbye to the summit and the mountain and again expressed my gratitude for allowing me to climb it. The trek down was awesome. It was like skiing! The ashy sand that tortured us on our way up seemed to have rewarded our efforts by making the descend easier and quicker.
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Getting to midcamp was comforting. I was so sleepy and hungry. I craved for something salty. But sleep’s call was much stronger than food that I grabbed my sleeping bag and snoozed under a tree. I didn't care how i looked like. It just felt that was the right thing to do. I only woke up to ‘Jawa’s’ tugging for me to get up and eat. He cooked noodles and it was just what I needed. God bless ‘Jawa’. I couldn’t have done all these without his help and knowledge.
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I am sure that my story of Semeru is just like the many others who were able to climb it. It is my wish that with this, more people would go and see more of  nature and see for themselves that beauty still abounds around us.