The Running Duck: Skyrun BromoTengger Semeru National Park (8/28-30,...

The Running Duck: Skyrun BromoTengger Semeru National Park (8/28-30,...: It all started when I failed to get a ticket going back home to the Philippines for the Eid break. Prices were ridiculously expensive durin...

Skyrun BromoTengger Semeru National Park (8/28-30, 2011)

 It all started when I failed to get a ticket going back home to the Philippines for the Eid break. Prices were ridiculously expensive during the Lebaran holiday.

My thoughts were wandering here and there. I just know that there was no way I will spend the break doing nothing. I really need this break to catch up with my training for Mount Kinabalu in October. I am so far behind my Philippine Skyrunning team whose been training months ago, while I was stuck at work. I got in touch with my friend mountaineer from UNILA (University of Lampung). I told him that I want to climb mountains in Java. Without hesitation, Medico ‘Dico’ Eka Putra agreed to take me to the mountains of Java. He surprised me for it’s not common for Muslims to miss out on Ramadan-Lebaran holiday. It was really kind of him.

Days before the Eid break, I got word from Dico that tickets have tripled in price. I know I don’t have much in my savings, so I ruled out going there by plane. I told Dico that we take the bus or train instead. Tickets for these transpo were also expensive. Dico managed to haggle a bit and got us tickets. Next was the other expenses. Getting a 4x4 jeep from Tumpang, Malang was definitely out of my budget, so I told Dico about my idea of renting a vegetable truck instead, to take us to Ranu Pani. He was amazed at my idea. He never thought I’d be wiling to ride a truck.

The bus and ferry trip to Malang in Java Timur was long and uncomfortable 32 hours. I kept consoling myself that without pain there is no gain and that sealed my fate for my ascend to Mount Semeru and Bromo Caldera.

From Malang, we were met by Dico’s mountaineer friends from MAPALA (a mountaineering organization) of the University of Islamic studies of Malang. Kota Malang greeted me with its cold weather that reminded me of my very own city: Baguio. I was just so glad to get off the bus. My butt hurts, my back was numb, and got a stiff neck and was craving for a long sleep. I was hungry but sleep’s call was stronger.

The following day was planning day and haggling day. We stationed ourselves at the mountaineers’ hub at the university. The mountaineers are just so hospitable. They treated me like a queen.  They took me around their campus, they fed me and made sure I ate and enjoyed my food. They wanted to fatten me up.

After finalizing the trip and transportation for Tumpang, we set off and slept at another of my guide’s friends’ home.

At 6 am on August 28, 2011 we boarded a vegetable truck bound for Ranupani, 28 kilometers away from Tumpang. My plan was to start running once we arrive at the Climbers and Search and Rescue Camp in Ranupani then rest at mid camp in Kalimati before we ascent for the summit at 1 am.

Passing by vegetation, apple trees, pines, figs, and beautifully sculpted mountains took my breath away. Again it reminded me of my home city and province, especially the temperature, road and terrain. From afar we can see a glimpse of Mt. Semeru. She is huge: 3,676 masl, beautiful and taunting while Bromo nearby is equally intimidating at 2,329 masl. Only God knows if I’d be able to climb the top. I was silently calling onto Him to allow me and make this happen.

After 2 hours of a bumpy truck ride, we arrived at Ranupani’s  Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park to register. I got out of my layered clothes and got ready for the run, remembering to bring my gaiter, gloves, trekking poles, pants and extra layering for the freezing temperature at the top. My guide-pacer ‘Jawa’ was all happy to run with me.

Leaving our backpacks with the other mountaineers, who opted to stay, to cook and wait up for us at base camp wished us a safe run and reminded me not to forget to use my buff when ascending the volcanic surface. Not doing this would be fatal. Several climbers have already died at the surface inhaling the sulfuric air and also of hypothermia.

I enjoyed the view as I ran the rolling hills. The mountains beyond were exquisite. Some of them were perfect for bouldering or rock climbing. Going through the bushes, I slipped and bumped my head hard on a suspended fallen tree trunk. I fell and got unconscious for a few seconds. I became conscious at my guide’s yelling: ‘are you ok?’. I got up and continued running. That was funny! This is what happens when you’re too busy appreciating the view!

Arriving at Ranukumbolo was jaw-dropping. The crater-lake was so beautiful from afar. Its waters was freezing cold to the touch. I was told that several villagers love to fish there. The area was also an old settlement of the Kingdom of Majapahit hundreds of years ago as proven by an old stone relic near the lake. Near it is also a popular path for trekkers, it’s called ‘the hill of love’. Legend has it that anyone who’s trekking this part, must not look back or else it’s bad luck.

Off we ran again. Next stop was the grassy plains of Oro Oro Ombo, a vast savanah. It was so dry that bush fires can occur at any moment. From a distance ahead of me, my guide told me that I looked so small, like a red dot hopping on the grass.

Another compression was at Cemoro Kandang, a mountain of cypress forest. I felt so relieved for the shade and the cool winds. Being under these trees made me sleepy, I just wanted to lay down and snooze for a while. We met some trekkers in this area, mostly to rest or camp for the night and move on the next day. Trekkers we met were from Australia, Singapore, Germany, Malaysia and locals from nearby provinces. They were very friendly.

About an hour later, we got to Kalimati, a barren area meaning waterless river. This is the mid camp for most climbers. Although the temperature can be as low as -2, setting up camp here gives a good view of Mt. Semeru. Nearby is a spring called Sumber Mani, where campers wash up, get their clean drinking water or take a bath - if they could handle the temperature.

Setting up camp was interesting. We found some wood for cooking and to keep us warm. But I had to go take advantage of the sunshine while I could to sunbathe. It was really cold. My hands were beginning to become numb. ‘Jawa’ was kind enough to do the rest of the setting up while I did some of my notes. A few moments later, a group of students joined the camp followed by a German couple and an advance party of porters of Australian and Singaporean trekkers arriving the next day. We all helped and cooked dinner and exchanged stories and they all asked me why I run the mountains. It was fun meeting all of them. Pictures were taken here and there of our group and promised to keep in touch…particularly in Facebook.

Falling asleep was difficult. It was icy cold. I was under layers of clothing in my sleeping bag but it wouldn’t stop the shaking. I did not sleep at all. I just looked at the stars and waited for time.

At 12 midnight, we were ready. The students decided to join me and ‘Jawa’ for the trek. The German couple went about an hour ahead of us. We had a light breakfast, mostly toast. I particularly requested something a bit salty for I have been eating mostly sweets since I arrived in Malang. The hot coffee was so good to my throat and to my touch. And I didn’t want to leave the fire’s warmth.

My hydration pack was full but light and that was good. Managing your load when going up a high mountain at such an elevation is very important. My guide and I distributed our load evenly to make the trek easier and faster for both of us. I dressed myself thickly and was thankful of the gaiter my friend and guide ‘Dico’ lent me. It was imperative that I wear it or else all the sulfuric sands and pebbles would get into my shoes and that would be trouble.

At 1:25 am on my watch, we started our journey to the woods and the summit. It was freezing. I still cannot feel my fingers and my toes. We were under the stars and a smiling crescent moon. The woods was dark and quiet, except for the sound of the wheezing winds. Without our headlamps, it was difficult to see where we’re going. As we walk and hop our way up, ‘Jawa’ told me a chilling story of trekkers who died on the very ground we were on. He pointed his headlamp to a headstone that showed the names of several trekkers who perished in their attempt to summit Mt. Semeru. Hypothermia, disorientation, altitude sickness, and hunger, he said, led to the death of the trekkers. That brought lump to my throat.

Slowly, I noticed I no longer see the roots of trees and branches that helped me pull myself up as I went higher. Faintly, I could see the vertical outline of the massive volcano in front of me. The fine sulfuric sands were eating me from my feet to my legs. It was hard to walk without sinking in almost knee deep. Without my trekking poles, it would be impossible to pull my legs up and step forward. According to my guide, one cannot risk holding on to rock-like formations for these are soft and could create a ‘slide’, similar to an avalanche. I wasn’t even allowed to sit for a long time. Every time I called for ‘rest’, I was warned not to sit, so I had to rest by standing, aided by my poles.

The sands were too soft for balance. Every five steps that I made, I end up making only two! It’s all because the sands make you slide down, like I wasn’t making any progress.  Every effort and movement I made, made me so exhausted. And then the air was thinning, indicating the soaring altitude. The wind was so strong, carrying with it a lot of the sulfur from the surface that made it so hard to breathe. My buff covering my face almost entirely, was so much of a help. It was also comforting to start the ascent in the dark, it just has this psychological factor: you don’t see the ‘hurdles’ in front of you and that was good. I just felt that the mountain was taunting me telling me to go back.

Whenever i stopped, I would turn and see such a magnificent view of the contours of nearby mountains, towns, villages and clouds hovering above them. The sun is almost out and we need to go faster to see it rise. Just as we were trying to beat the sunrise, I noticed the others are no longer behind us. I could no longer see their headlights. ‘Jawa’ told me the others must have given up and headed back to mid camp.

In my exhaustion, I stopped more frequently. I refused to look up because I know it would only make me more tired. ‘Jawa’ kept yelling ‘c’mon’! He kept saying how many more meters left and I didn’t want to hear that. I felt so exhausted that i wanted to hit him for his yelling. For a moment I felt like a kid being scold at.  Hundred meters are like kilometers for me at that moment.But i am so thankful for having him around. He got me going.

The last 50 meters seemed the longest. My feet, my legs, my thighs were burning and heavy that I was afraid I might get a cramp at any moment soon. It was a long haul. ‘Jawa’ kept egging me to keep going as it’s almost sunrise. I hauled myself several more painful times and at 5:30 in the morning,  ‘Jawa’ and I arrived at the summit. Seeing the sunrise and stepping on the summit, I cried and I knelt. I was overwhelmed by the beauty of being on top of this beautiful mountain and the miracle of reaching it. My guide let me take my time to cry. I was thankful for everything. To God who made this experience happen for me. For the strength that pushed me all the way to the top.

With the nipping cold of –8 degrees at the summit, I took out my country’s flag and tied it second at the pole, second to the Indonesian flag. It gave me a sense of pride and immense gratitude.I was still crying.

Knowing we have ample time to take pictures and savor the view, I was in my running gear and ran around the allowable area of the crater. Running on ‘Mahameru’ felt great, I felt like I was floating. After about 20 minutes, my guide told me that it was time to go, before the usual mild spewing of ash and smoke of the crater happens. It would be hard to breathe, he said.

I bid goodbye to the summit and the mountain and again expressed my gratitude for allowing me to climb it. The trek down was awesome. It was like skiing! The ashy sand that tortured us on our way up seemed to have rewarded our efforts by making the descend easier and quicker.

Getting to midcamp was comforting. I was so sleepy and hungry. I craved for something salty. But sleep’s call was much stronger than food that I grabbed my sleeping bag and snoozed under a tree. I didn't care how i looked like. It just felt that was the right thing to do. I only woke up to ‘Jawa’s’ tugging for me to get up and eat. He cooked noodles and it was just what I needed. God bless ‘Jawa’. I couldn’t have done all these without his help and knowledge.

I am sure that my story of Semeru is just like the many others who were able to climb it. It is my wish that with this, more people would go and see more of  nature and see for themselves that beauty still abounds around us.